Welcome to Hiroshima Airport! ✈️

Japan’s Shinkansen (bullet train) system is a popular travel method, offering speed and convenience. However, flying into Hiroshima Airport can provide a unique and efficient gateway to the stunning Seto Inland Sea. This lesser-known starting point provides an array of local delights and an unbeatable route to the beautiful Setouchi region, a hidden gem of Japan. Japan’s airports are pretty different from the idea of airports that we are used to. Hiroshima Airport is peaceful, clean, and welcoming for people from all over the world.

I had the Setouchi Area on my Japan travel bucket list for so long that I am happy I finally got to explore this area in spring on a 4-day trip in mid-April. Below, you can see what we have been up to, a model itinerary, and recommended sightseeing spots and accommodation in Setouchi. Along with onsen and flower-hunting, exploring Japan’s islands represents one of my favorite Japan travel themes, and I am glad the theme of this trip was Setouchi Island Hopping.

How to get there

Flying into Hiroshima Airport

Traveling by plane is an excellent option for those looking to explore the Seto Inland Sea. Hiroshima Airport provides easier access to this region than Shinkansen. As soon as you land, you can start immersing yourself in local culture and cuisine. At the airport, you can already try the famous Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki with oysters or Onomichi ramen. Don’t forget to check out the beautiful porcelain mural by Setoda-born artist Ikuo Hirayama and pick up some famous lemon-flavored snacks and sweets, as this area is renowned for its lemons.

Recommended Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival and Exploration

• Morning: Arrive at Hiroshima Airport. Enjoy local delicacies and explore the airport’s cultural offerings.
• Afternoon: Drive or take a bus to Mihara City. Visit Mihara Castle Park and participate in a Mihara Daruma workshop.
• Evening: Travel from Mihara Port to Ikuchijima and check into Azumi Setoda.

Day 2: Ikuchijima Island Adventures

• Morning: Start with Zen meditation at Kojoji Temple.
• Midday: Explore the island’s art installations and visit the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art.
• Afternoon: Join a cycling tour on Ikuchijima.
• Evening: Head to Onomichi and stay at ONOMICHI U2.

Day 3: Onomichi and Momoshima

• Morning: Take a ferry from Onomichi to Momoshima. Visit ART BASE Momoshima and explore the island’s art scene.
• Afternoon: Return to Onomichi and explore local attractions such as Senkoji and the Cat Trail.
• Evening: Stay at LOG Onomichi, a hotel that combines history, art, and modern comfort.

Day 4: Final Exploration and Departure

• Morning: Continue exploring Onomichi. Visit the Ushitora Shrine and the Onomichi Hondori Arcade.
• Afternoon: Return to Hiroshima Airport. Enjoy more local specialties and pick up souvenirs before your flight home.

What to see & do?

Exploring Mihara City

• Buttsuji: On your way from Hiroshima Airport to Mihara, stop by Buttsu Temple or Buttsuji. This serene Zen temple is surrounded by lush vegetation, making it an excellent spot for meditation and relaxation. The temple is magnificent in late spring and summer, offering a peaceful retreat with its Zen dojo.

• Oshima Shrine: A beautiful shrine accessible via a path lined with 62 torii gates, offering panoramic views of Mihara City and the Seto Inland Sea.

• Mihara Port: A gateway to Setouchi island hopping, perfect for starting your exploration of the region’s many islands.

Setouchi Island Hopping

• Ikuchijima: Known for its art installations and delicious lemons, this island is part of the Shimanami Kaido, a top cycling route in Japan. Visit the Kousanji Temple, explore the marble Heights of Eternal Hope for the Future, and check out the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art.

• Iwagijima: Accessible only by boat, this island is famous for its fresh seafood and lemon-fed pork. Dine at Yoshimasa, a restaurant/hotel run by a friendly couple, and enjoy dishes made from locally sourced ingredients.

Onomichi

• Senkoji: A temple that offers stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea, especially at sunset. The nearby Path of Literature features writings from famous poets and authors.

• Neko no Hosomichi (Cat Trail): A narrow alley filled with cat-related items and images, perfect for cat lovers.

Accommodation

Azumi Setoda

Overview: Azumi Setoda is a Japanese-modern style accommodation in Setoda Town on Ikuchijima Island. This luxurious hotel blends traditional Japanese aesthetics with contemporary comforts, making it an ideal retreat for travelers seeking a tranquil and authentic experience.

Highlights:

• Historical Significance: Azumi Setoda is the reimagined family estate of the Horiuchi family, known for its success in salt production and shipping. The 140-year-old structure boasts well-preserved architecture with rooms updated to meet modern needs.

• Rooms: There are four room types, each designed to blend traditional ryokan comforts with contemporary amenities. Each room has a cypress bathtub, and guests can enjoy the Yubune bathhouse across the street.

• Design: Rooms are crafted with cedar, cypress, washi, and granite, reflecting the contemporary sukiya style. Double beds are standard, and two can be combined to create a king-size bed.
• Niwa Rooms: These rooms are designed for two guests and include a small garden. Yukimi shoji screens allow guests to enjoy the garden view from any point in the room. The granite floors provide seasonal comfort, feeling cool in the summer and warm in the winter. A sofa at the foot of the bed serves as a modern substitute for the traditional ryokan engawa, offering a cozy place to recline.

• Experiences: Azumi Setoda offers various experiences on the island, such as Zen meditation at Kojyo-ji Temple, cycling tours, and dining experiences at local restaurants, as well as a public bath facility for hotel guests but also for day trippers located across the street – Yubune.

ONOMICHI U2

Overview: ONOMICHI U2 is a unique complex designed specifically for cyclists. Located in the port town of Onomichi, it offers a modern, stylish stay with amenities tailored to those exploring the Shimanami Kaido cycling route.

Highlights:

• HOTEL CYCLE: This cyclist-friendly hotel allows guests to ride straight into the hotel and store their bikes in their rooms. This unique setup is perfect for those exploring the Shimanami Kaido.

• Restaurant: The on-site restaurant serves various delicious dishes, perfect for refueling after a long day of cycling.

• Bar and Cafe: The bar offers a selection of drinks to unwind in the evening, while the cafe provides a cozy spot for coffee and snacks throughout the day.
• Bakery: Freshly baked goods are available, offering a delicious start to the day.
• Shops: Several shops within the complex sell local crafts and cycling gear.
• Location: ONOMICHI U2 is ideally situated for exploring the charming alleys and historical sites of Onomichi and starting or ending a cycling journey along the Shimanami Kaido.

LOG Onomichi

Overview: LOG Onomichi is a hidden gem halfway up the hill to Senkoji. This unique hotel combines history, art, and modern comfort, offering a tranquil and artistic retreat.

Highlights:

• Historical Significance: Originally an apartment building from 1963, LOG Onomichi has been beautifully redesigned by STUDIO MUMBAI, blending historical elements with modern design.
• Guest Rooms: The cozy guest rooms on the third-floor feature handmade washi paper by Hatano Wataru, providing a warm and inviting atmosphere.

• Library: Inspired by Mr. Bijoy Jain’s work, the library on the third floor offers a quiet space for reading and relaxation.

• Dining Room, Café & Bar, Store, and Gallery: The first and second floors house a variety of spaces that change their vibe throughout the day, offering everything from dining and drinks to shopping and art.

• Artistic Retreat: LOG Onomichi captures the town’s creative spirit, making it more than a hotel. Guests can enjoy the blend of history, art, and tranquility.

• Proximity to Attractions: The hotel is close to attractions like the Cat Trail and Senkoji and offers stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Exploring the Setouchi region, starting from Hiroshima Airport, offers a unique and enriching experience. This area has something for every traveler, from historical sites and serene temples to art-filled islands and delicious local cuisine. Whether cycling across islands, meditating at a Zen temple, or savoring fresh seafood, the Seto Inland Sea promises an unforgettable adventure. Save this guide and plan your next trip to Japan’s beautiful Setouchi region!

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Happy travels!