Ever since the JR East Pass became available for foreign residents in 2015, I have used it countless times, so much so that I have lost track of the exact number. Thanks to this pass, I discovered the beauty of the Tohoku region, which was not originally on my Japan travel bucket list (which was already pretty long, even before I moved to Japan). In my opinion, the four seasons are more distinct in Tohoku, with snowy winters, stunning sakura (cherry blossom) trees in spring, refreshing and mild summers, and vibrant autumn colors.
I visited Tohoku during autumn before heading to Fukushima and Miyagi. However, this time, I went to Aomori and Akita, two prefectures that I love and have already visited during spring and winter. So, visiting during autumn was like a dream come true. I’ve had this trip in mind for many years and finally, for my birthday, I was able to make it happen. To my delight, the autumn in Tohoku was just as beautiful as I had imagined. Although there aren’t as many maple trees as in other parts of Japan, like Kyoto, the autumn season here has its own charm.
In this post, I will share my unforgettable experience of exploring the beauty of autumn in Aomori, Tohoku!
How to get there?
As stated earlier, I recommend the JR East Pass (Tohoku area) for five consecutive days of unlimited Shinkansen rides. Starting from October 2023, the pass prices have increased from ¥20,000 to ¥30,000. Despite the price hike, I still believe that it is an excellent deal. For instance, the round-trip fare from Tokyo to Aomori costs ¥34,490, which is more expensive than the pass price. The pass also allows you to access local trains besides Shinkansen.
Although you can reach many places in Aomori and Tohoku by train and bus, renting a car provides more flexibility and opportunities to discover hidden gems. Therefore, if possible, renting a car is the best option.
Accommodation
During my recent trip, I had the opportunity to spend two nights in Aomori and two nights in Akita, both known for their natural hot springs or onsen. I was thrilled to discover that all of the hotels and ryokans I stayed at had an onsen, making it the perfect onsen trip! In Aomori, I had the pleasure of staying at two of the three Hoshino Resorts brand hotels. The first was Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru, a beautiful hotel in the countryside. The hotel had a modern design with a touch of traditional Japanese elements. It was the perfect place to relax and unwind. The second hotel was the Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel, situated amid a forest by a river. I enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere and the soothing sound of the river.
In Akita, I stayed at two traditional ryokans in Nyuto Onsen. The first ryokan was Kuroyu Onsen, which was a rustic yet charming place with traditional Japanese decor and a beautiful outdoor onsen. The second ryokan was Tsuru-no-Yu Bekkan Yama-no-Yado, situated on a hill and providing a stunning view of the surrounding mountains. This ryokan had a more modern feel but still maintained traditional Japanese elements. The onsen here was also a highlight of my stay.
Overall, it was an incredible experience to stay at these hotels and ryokans and to enjoy the natural hot springs of Aomori and Akita.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru
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Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru 星野リゾート 界 津軽
36-1 Aza-Kamibotanmori, Owani, Owani-machi, Minamitsugaru-gun, Aomori 038-0211
038-0211 青森県南津軽郡大鰐町大鰐字上牡丹森36-1
TEL Reservations +81-50-3134-8096 (10:00 AM – 6:00 PM)
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As part of the prestigious Hoshino Resorts, the KAI brand is a collection of contemporary onsen ryokan offering a gateway to Japan’s best aspects—温泉 onsen (hot spring),食事 kaiseki (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner), and ご当地楽 gotochi-gaku (activities) celebrating the local culture. At KAI Tsugaru, you can learn more about the charming area of Tsugaru and enjoy local products, such as the famous apples, even inside their onsen during colder months. The Komorebi design of the hallways was selected by Architectural Digest magazine as one of the top 10 most beautiful hotel hallways in the world!
The dinner I had was exceptional, and the star of the show was the Oma tuna, which was in season when I visited in October. The kaiseki experience varies depending on the ingredients that are in season. You can enhance your dining experience to a new level of elegance and taste with the Tokubetsu Kaiseki dinner course (Special Kaiseki dinner course) at Kai Tsugaru, Aomori. Each dish is a culinary art, meticulously crafted to celebrate the freshest seasonal ingredients and local flavors.
While visiting Aomori, I had the opportunity to engage in a fun activity – apple picking! I woke up early in the morning and embarked on a quest to find the most delicious apples in Japan. Yamada-san, the owner of the orchard, shared several interesting facts about apples, taught us a few words in the Tsugaru dialect (which sounded like another language to me!), and even treated us to some of the sweetest apple juice produced by him!
Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel
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Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel 星野リゾート 奥入瀬渓流ホテル
231 Tochikubo, Okuse, Towada-shi, Aomori-ken, 034-0301
034-0301青森県十和田市大字奥瀬字栃久保231
TEL Reservations +81-50-3134-8096 (10:00 AM – 6:00 PM)
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I stayed at one of my dream hotels in Japan during my birthday trip and I’m grateful for it. Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel is the only resort hotel built on the shores of the Oirase Gorge, and it was perfect timing for autumn foliage. Autumn is the most beautiful and popular season to visit, especially as it arrives earlier here than the rest of Japan. Late October is the perfect time for enchanting autumn colors, and it was wonderful that my birthday fell on October 26th!
We had a wonderful time exploring the natural beauty of Japan during our trip. We savored delicious flavors at Ringo (Apple) Kitchen and took an open bus tour through the stunning Oirase Gorge, considered Japan’s most beautiful river valley. One of the highlights of our trip was enjoying a delightful breakfast outside while facing the river. The serene sound of the river and charming surroundings made this experience unforgettable.
Private cars were not allowed inside the Oirase Gorge during our visit to preserve natural beauty, so the open-top bus tour was the perfect way to explore the best spots. In addition to sightseeing, we also had a unique experience crafting a gourd lamp, which we could take home as a beautiful souvenir of our trip.
What to see & do?
During my recent trip, my main focus was to relax and enjoy the hot springs at the hotels and ryokans. Therefore, sightseeing was not a top priority. However, I did visit a couple of stunning places in Aomori prefecture renowned for their autumn foliage. I explored Tsuta Numa and Jogakura Bridge, both breathtakingly beautiful. I have captured the essence of these places in the photos below, which I hope will do justice to their natural beauty.
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Happy travels!
