Today is an important day in Japan, the last day of the Heisei Imperial Era, the day of the abdication of Emperor Akihito. From tomorrow on, a new era starts, the Reiwa Era. All day today I’ve seen news about this event, about the ceremonies, about how Japanese people feel, what do they do on this day and so on. What a time to be living in Japan! I feel truly grateful for this even though I cannot attend any ceremonies or official events like these and just watch them on TV like everyone around the world, but still, being in Japan during this time feels truly special.

Now, I would like to use this occasion and write my last post of Heisei. I would like to tell you about my recent trip to Kyoto. You might already know how much I love Kyoto and I make the most out of every occasion to go there. This time I didn’t have a purpose like the autumn leaves or cherry blossoms, that is why I decided to name this post Green Kyoto! In this time of the year, after the cherry blossom season is over, a vibrant green can be seen all over Japan. Maple leaves turn green, cherry blossom trees turn green, everything is green and here and there some shades of pink or red or many other colors from the colorful spring flowers. I thought Kyoto is special only when the leaves change color in autumn otherwise known as the momiji season or during the sakura season. However, I might have been wrong, Kyoto is wonderful during all seasons! (I still have to check out winter!)

Many people complain that Kyoto is too crowded and they cannot find that peace, that Zen atmosphere that they are longing for when visiting it. But if you are going a bit off the beaten path, there are still many wonders of Kyoto to be discovered. Of course, Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkaku-ji, Fushimi Inari are all still must-sees, however as I have already visited them, this time I was wondering where else I could go. And I found a beautiful temple with an even more beautiful garden that I decided to visit. Let’s discover it together below!

Morning in Higashiyama

First things first, coffee! I had my accommodation in Higashiyama district, very close to Gion, the Geisha district, and to many temples. My favorite coffee in Kyoto, %Arabica Kyoto is located very close to Yasaka Pagoda, one of the most photogenic spots in all of Kyoto. Going there in the morning, I managed to enjoy the place without the crowds, and have my coffee in peace.

Then I took the bus from Higashiyama towards Ohara, the part of Kyoto where I wanted to visit two temples. It took me one hour by bus and unexpectedly, the bus was full, it seems other people knew about this hidden gem as well… which makes it not hidden anymore haha. As we arrived there, we were completely in the middle of nature, in a very quiet area with not many people but with many temples. Not everyone went to the same temple, so the one I chose to go first was completely empty when I got there.

Hōsen-in  （宝泉院）

This wonderful temple is called Hōsen-in and it has a very interesting history. It is known for its 700-year old pine tree which is said to have the shape of Mt. Fuji and is the oldest tree in Kyoto. It is also known for its bloody ceiling, wood boards from an old castle where many samurais committed suicide were imported here as a commemoration of the brave men who gave their lives. It might sound a bit gloomy but footprints, handprints, outlines of faces come into sight if the ceiling is closely being looked up at.

Entrance fee is 800 yen, the price for which you will also be served with matcha tea and traditional Japanese sweets.

The garden is so beautiful that it is hard to leave… I spent around 2 hours there…

After spending so much time in there, I got hungry and for lunch, I went to a nearby restaurant where I ordered a vegetarian menu based on tofu. It had yuba (tofu skin), sesame tofu, tofu cheesecake and they were all super good. The restaurant is called Kyoubijaya and as I later found out, it is quite famous on TripAdvisor!

 Sanzen-in (三千院) 

Actually, the most famous temple in the area is Sanzen-in, which I chose to visit after. Sanzen-in also boasts a wonderful Japanese garden and it is a huge complex so many things to see there, much more larger than Hosen-in. For the 700-yen entrance fee, you will not get tea here though. But you can have matcha tea in their garden for an additional 500-yen.

What I didn’t expect to find was sakura in full bloom! Besides the late-blooming yaezakura, I also found some beautiful shidarezakura.

Gion (祇園)

My day ended in Gion, watching geishas 🙂 I did my touristy thing and took many photos of them, taking care not to disturb them in any way so I always kept the distance. It is not forbidden to take their photos, but it is better not to slow them down or disturb them in any ways. That evening I was especially lucky to see many geishas as there was a spring dance happening in one event area there and all of them were going there. I am fascinated by their wonderful kimonos and makeup and also by their culture.

And no trip to Kyoto would have been complete without a good dose of matcha drinks and sweets! Ended my day at Yojiya Cafe where I tried their famous matcha cappuccino and a very good tofu tiramisu. 10/10 for the intense matcha flavor but still not bitter, mildly sweet, and for the relaxing atmosphere at their cafe. Next time I wish to try the Japanese-styled on at Ginkakuji! The one in Gion has Western-style seats and tables.

Thank you for your visit and happy travels!