I Survived the Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival

Watching fireworks ( 花火 hanabi) during summer is a national favorite pastime in Japan. Throughout July and August, fireworks are displayed at least once every week in different parts of Japan. Many people outside of Japan asked me what was the occasion for the fireworks, but there was no occasion such as a national day or something like that. Fireworks have a long history in Japan and the Japanese people just love them. Upon doing a bit of research on the Internet, I also found out that they were originally used to ward off evil spirits. And this can be related to Obon, a national Japanese holiday in mid-August when it is believed that spirits come back on earth. During this period, many Japanese return to their hometowns and pay visits to the graves (ohaka-mairi).

There are several events only in Tokyo and around Tokyo but the further you go from the city, the larger the scale of the shows and the fireworks will be. Two years ago I went to an awesome event in Chiba where you also had to pay for a seat (on the ground) and fireworks were displayed along with music. That was an unforgettable experience and it was definitely worth paying for it! Yes, most of these events also have paid seats, so you can make sure you have a good spot from where to watch the fireworks and you don’t get tired as the shows usually last for one hour or more. This year, I decided to go and see the popular firework displays in Tokyo, for free. I started with Sumidagawa, which is said to be the biggest and most important event that you don’t want to miss when in Tokyo.

Even before going, most of my Japanese friends warned me about the insane crowds so I kind of knew what to expect. However, I kind of expected the fireworks to be spectacular since so many people gathered there. But to be honest, I was not impressed by the fireworks at all… after every 1-2 fireworks, there were long breaks, it was hard to find a good spot from where to watch them and when we tried to head to the station about 30 minutes before the show ended, it was crazy… So do I recommend going? Not really, if you have the time and the chance, I recommend choosing another event, preferably a bit further away from Tokyo (Chiba, Saitama etc) for a better experience. For me, Sumidagawa was just crowded and hot, not actually enjoyable.

But there was something I liked about this event, and that was the family atmosphere, people living in the area getting their living room tables out and gathering for a picnic on the streets. It was the first time I saw something like this in Japan, I knew Japanese people love having picnics during the cherry blossom season, but fireworks picnic was something new for me. Many children were more focused on their food than on watching the fireworks, haha. Another nice option is if your hotel/hostel is in the area or if you have friends there and can watch the fireworks from the balcony or so, without having to deal with the crowds.

In the beginning, it was nice observing locals setting up their tables outside, on the streets, trying some foods from the food stalls and the beginning of the fireworks show was also nice but after a while, it started getting super loud and crowded. We walked all the way to Ueno station in order to return home since Asakusa station was too small for so many people (apparently 90.000 persons came). I would call it the most crowded fireworks show in Tokyo but not the most beautiful.

Tips on how to survive the Sumidagawa Fireworks if you decide to go next year (from my own experience, leaving the jokes aside, it can be pretty dangerous being stuck in the heat, among so many people):

go there early to secure a good spot but also leave early, it’s also good to spend a few hours around Asakusa before returning home so you can avoid the crowded stations;
avoid the most well-known stations such as Asakusa and opt for other stations, even though they might be a bit further away;
drink plenty of water before but try not to drink during the show as toilets are rare;
wear comfortable clothes & shoes (it is not a place where you’d want to dress to impress);
try local foods from the stalls;
enjoy!